Cashmere knitwear standard
Key: Fz/T 73009—1997 “Cashmere Knitwear†standard specifies the technical requirements, test methods, inspection and acceptance rules and packaging marks of cashmere knitwear, and is applicable to the identification of fine, carded cashmere knitwear and The quality of cashmere blended knitwear with 30% or more cashmere. Cashmere knitwear is graded according to physical test results, dyed wagon and appearance quality. Product grade is divided into superior products, first-class products, second-class products, third-class products. Man'S Pants,Men Casual Pants,Mens Sweatpants,Mens Casual Slim Pants Shaoxing Tongbang Textile Co.,Ltd. , https://www.sxtongbangtextiles.com
Physical index 1. Cashmere fiber content A. Pure cashmere knitwear should contain 100% cashmere fiber. Considering the presence of cashmere fiber morphological variation and non-artificial wool blending, the content should not exceed 5%, that is, when the cashmere fiber content of the finished product reaches 95% or more, Treated as 100% cashmere and marked as 100% cashmere.
B. Decrease in cashmere fiber content (absolute percentage) in blended products
The permissible deviation of the percentage of the cashmere fibers in the excellent grades and the first grades of the cashmere-blended knitwear is 3%, that is, the reduction of the cashmere fibers is not more than 3%. The other fiber components in the cashmere-blend knitwear are limited to animal fibers such as silk and wool, and natural plant fibers such as cotton and hemp.
2. One-piece weight deviation cashmere knitwear is in pieces. When processing each piece of cashmere knitwear, the weight of the single piece is designed according to factors such as the thickness of the yarn used, the density of the weaving, and the like. After production and processing, the weight of the finished product cannot be lighter than 4% of the design weight.
3. Breakout strength This indicator reflects the firmness of the product. The size of the burst strength index is related to the thickness of the yarn, the density of the weaving, and the like. The greater the burst strength, the longer the product life. Due to the fineness of cashmere fibers, cashmere knitwear has lower strength than ordinary wool knitwear. The burst strength of the combed cashmere knitwear is 225 kPa, and the burst strength of the carded cashmere knitwear is 196 kPa.
4. Weaving Density Factor Weaving Density Factor only checks superior products and first-class products of carded single jersey. If this index is less than 1.0, it indicates that the product's weaving density is unqualified and the product is lax.
5. Pilling cashmere knitwear is constantly subjected to friction during the actual wearing and washing process, and the fiber ends of the surface of the knitwear are exposed, and many plushs appear on the surface, namely, "fluffing". If these furs do not fall off in time while they continue to wear, they are entangled with each other and are kneaded into many spherical pellets, often called "pills." The pilling of cashmere knitwear will deteriorate the appearance of the product. Cashmere fiber is fine and soft, and it is easier to play the ball. The evaluation of this indicator is to control the degree of pilling of cashmere knitwear. The pilling indicators are divided into 5 levels, with the worst at 1st level and the best at 5th level. Excellent products are not less than 3-4 grades, and first grade products are not less than 3 grades.
6. Dichloromethane Soluble Substance Diazomethane Soluble Substance Index Refers to the determination of the soluble components of methylene chloride contained in cashmere knitwear. It includes natural wool grease, oils added in the production process, detergents, substances used in special treatment methods such as softeners and the like. If the amount of oil added in the production process or the amount of softener used to increase the product feel is not properly controlled, this indicator will be exceeded. Excessively high levels of this indicator will produce odors and feel sticky. This requires manufacturers to control the amount of oil and additives used in the processing process. Excellent products are not higher than 1.5% and first-class goods are not higher than 1.7%.
7. Relaxation Shrinkage Relaxation shrinkage refers to the dimensional change of the product after washing under dynamic conditions. If the production enterprise can not strictly control the weaving process and the ironing process, it will cause the product density to be loose or the small-size products will be ironed into large-size products. After the washing, the size of the products will be greatly deformed and the wear will be affected. After the product is washed, whether it is shrinking or rising compared with the original size, it must be controlled. Premium and first-class products are +/- 5%.
8. Colour fastness Colorful cashmere knitwear is dyed. In the process of wearing these products will be subject to light, washing, ironing, perspiration, friction, chemical agents and other external factors, which requires that the color of dyed cashmere products relatively maintain a certain degree of fastness. In general, the ability of a dyed product to withstand the outside world while maintaining its original color is called "color fastness." The color fastness of cashmere knitwear is assessed by 5 indicators and assessed by the number of stages. The higher the number of stages, the better the color fastness.
Lightfastness refers to the determination of the ability of a cashmere knit to withstand natural light. The assessment criteria for light fastness of dark and light colors are not the same.
Washability refers to the degree of color fading of a cashmere knit after washing in a specially formulated lotion (similar to commonly used lotions).
Perspiration resistance refers to the degree of color fading of cashmere knitwear after being washed in specially formulated perspiration (imitation of sweat secreted by the human body).
Water resistance refers to the color fading of cashmere knitwear after washing with water.
Friction resistance refers to the degree of color fading of the knitwear after rubbing.
For details of the above five assessment indicators, see FZ/T 73009-1997 "Cashmere Knitwear" standard.
Appearance quality Appearance quality includes part size tolerances, part size differences, seam length, collar pull size, skew angle, and appearance defects. Specific data see Fz/T73009-199